Okay, so a huge jump for me has been learning how to drive in India. Not exactly safe for Western standards. Earlier I had posted a pic of my new motorbike...well, things didn't get off to a good start after I hit our former landlord's car as I tried to learn how to ride an Enfield (similar to a Harley in the States).
So, I decided to take things in a different direction, luckily a friend of mine was willing to learn how to ride a motorbike in exchange for letting me borrow their scooter. Overnight things became increasingly easier! Learning how to drive a scooter in India takes the technical aspect of driving out of the equation and limits my learning to how navigate in India...probably the more difficult aspect of the whole thing!
As I first started, I was immediately reminded of the movie, Finding Nemo. If you watch the way fish swim, they are constantly moving in and out of the way depending on if they are bigger or smaller and in which direction they happen to be going. This is precisely what it is like in India. Whenever there is a bigger car coming in the opposite direction, if they decide to come into your lane, it is not their responsibility to move out of my way...it is actually my responsibility to move as far over as possible to accommodate them.
This may sound crazy to those who are used to remaining in their lanes of traffic, but this is the way it is here. Surprisingly, usually it works! However, there are its downsides too.
Last week I needed to pay rent, the distance from our home to the bank is only about 5-10 minutes. This day, however, was a rather "special" day. As I neared the main city center, the traffic started to back up. I assumed this was just the busy time of day so I took a "short" cut that is available to those who are one two-wheelers. It wasn't long before I realized that all routes were completely blocked up, nothing was moving. It was then I began seeing school children, parents waiting, and taxis on standby that it became obvious that that the school holiday had begun early.
No warnings in the paper, even parents were taken off guard at the earliness of the break. Two others things I haven't mentioned, one was that I decided to wait and get gas (petrol) for the return thinking it would be more convenient on the way back. Secondly, this was one of the hotter days we were having, in the early 40's C or low 100's F.
So, all to say, by the time I was heading home from the bank, I assumed it would be smooth sailing. I was taking different route home, one that circumvented the school drop off and pick up areas. However, more of the same was in store. By the time I was in the thick of the stand still traffic, there was no turning back and my gas was almost at empty.
One of the things I noticed right away is that when there are no traffic guards, it's every man, woman for him/herself. This leads to complete gridlock, all little holes in the traffic are plugged up on all sides, no one is willing to make room and allow anyone from the opposite way to get through. I'm not sure why this is what happens, but my guess is, that the school of fish principle works only insofar as there is not a large amount of traffic circulating in a small amount of space. It just so happens that on this increasingly stressful day, no traffic guards were present anywhere in the city.
Did they also declare a holiday on the same day? Did they know how crazy it would be today so out of survival for their lives they decided to take a long two hour chai break? Not sure, but it would take another 45 minutes at this stop to disentangle myself from all the other traffic and make it back home. But honestly, it was frightening. When you're not moving for that long and it's obvious that the way is blocked by the opposing traffic, everyone starts to get antsy. Desperation sets in as gas levels run low, the heat takes its toll, soon no one is willing to make room for anyone and anyone that gains an advantage will maintain it to the death. I realized that driving is not for the faint-hearted.
Well, all to say, I survived this trial by fire and every one of these experiences only makes me a better driver and survivor. I'm happy we waited a year before I started driving, but now that I am, a whole new world has opened up--both its priveleges and its dangers.
Thanks for letting me share.
Here's a short video scooting around the city.
-Chris
